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Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers > Volume 31(6); 2019 > Article
J Korean Soc Coast Ocean Eng 2019;31(6): 409-422. doi: https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2019.31.6.409
Beach Cusp 생성기작으로 기능하는 Synchronous Edge Wave 수치해석
이형재, 조용준
서울시립대학교 토목공학과
Numerical Analysis of Synchronous Edge Wave Known as the Driving Mechanism of Beach Cusp
Hyung Jae Lee, Yong Jun Cho
Department of Civil Engineering, University of Seoul 163 Seoulsiripdaero, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul 02504 Korea
Corresponding author: Yong Jun Cho ,Tel: +82-2-6490-2427, Fax: +82-2-6490-2424, Email: young@uos.ac.kr
Received: November 4, 2019;  Revised: December 13, 2019.  Accepted: December 20, 2019.
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ABSTRACT
In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.
Keywords: beach cusp, synchronous edge wave, IHFOAM, obliquely colliding two cnoidal waves, initialization of beach cusp by sub-harmonic edge waves
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